Simplicity and muscle

Two phrases are scrawled through the pages of my journals, wedged between recipes, sketches and ramblings. Strive for simplicity. Strive for muscle. Written in confident, looping letters, these are big ideas which haunt me in the small, quiet hours of the morning. As though the action of tracing the letters over and over will allow them to seep into daily life. But the art of reduction is as elusive as it is desirable. ‘Strive for muscle’ is a phrase borrowed from Francine Du Plessix Gray, found when rifling one holiday among the pages of The Writing Life. Wrangling words, dancing with language – the ‘muscle’ or strength, simplicity if you will, of which Gray speaks is worth striving for. An idea linguistically stripped back to its essence, one that inevitably spills into other areas of thinking. Simplicity. Muscle. Both require courage.

Harmony, mindfulness. Lately these have taken a grip on my thinking, edging, as we are, toward the introspective darker days of winter. It’s all too easy to be swept up by the confusion of bells and whistles in the kitchen; to be seduced by long lists of the exotic, the obscure. Time to step back. Time to breathe.

Simplicity in the kitchen is about developing intuition and confidence. Listening to the language your ingredients are speaking. How else will they shine? It’s about taking pleasure in small things, like running your fingers through the verdant pots of parsley, beads of water showering your good shoes in the process. Or sipping green tea in the afternoon and watching chickpeas slowly, very slowly, swell in a dish of cold, clear water. Simplicity is washing the dishes by hand because the dishwasher is, sadly, far too complicated. And simplicity is having the courage to place a bowl of homemade smoky eggplant puree on the table with some buttery, slow-cooked chickpeas and happily call it Dinner.

Drifting back, nose first, to the musky fug of chickpeas and bay quietly simmering in the oven, I know instantly what is needed. A bowl of herbal, fresh, flavour-lifting persillade to cut through that richness. Simple. Muscular. We ate in contented silence and both agreed it a meal fit for company. Hunks of crusty bread, or soft fresh pita, optional.

Persillade
Simplicity is persillade. Parsley, from the garden if you’re lucky, washed and carefully dried, pine nuts from the pantry and a clove, maybe two, of garlic. The zest of a lemon sometimes goes in depending on the sort of lift a dish needs, but essentially this is an intuitive thing. A very worthy, but vastly different, substitute for parmesan cheese.

Palmful of pine nuts
1 clove of garlic, peeled
2-3 large handfuls of parsley leaves, washed and well dried

Toast the pine nuts to a pale shade of gold in a heavy based frying pan. Cool on a plate. Chop the garlic roughly, then chop everything together, running your knife back and forth, over and over, until it’s all quite fine.

Smoky eggplant puree
Not quite the classic Babaganoush, this is adapted from Stephanie Alexander’s simple, delicious recipe. Her suggestion to serve with a separate bowl of sour cream into which you have stirred some finely chopped fresh ginger and another, smaller, bowl of sliced hot green chillies is Highly Recommended.

3-4 eggplants
Olive oil
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
Sea salt
2 lemons, juiced
Tahini, to taste

Preheat the oven to 180 C.

Trim and quarter the eggplants lengthways. Nestle them in a single layer in a large baking dish and drizzle with a little olive oil, just enough to lubricate the pan. Roast, turning once, for 40-45 minutes, until the wedges are cooked all the way though. Cool, then peel away and discard the skins. Place the softened eggplant flesh in a colander and press down with the back of a spoon to expel as much liquid as possible.

Puree the eggplant with the garlic, a little salt, the lemon juice and a tablespoon, to begin with, of tahini. Whiz to a puree, adding a little more tahini if you like. Serve topped with a thread of extra
virgin olive oil.

Gum blossom.

Photographed while watching Oscar play football, I'm rather sorry to say, badly.

Poor lad...

123

Lisa has asked me to turn to page 123 of my current reading, count 5 sentences, then post the following 3:

‘I can’t. I can’t promise.’

‘Say “yes”, Rosemary.’

George Orwell
Keep the Aspidistra Flying

Who’d have thought that Orwell, taken in this context, could sound so bodice-ripping?

And Wendy, those little sprouts up there are beetroot. Yours is a delicious, brilliant idea.

Join in, if you like.

Out of the Frying Pan...

and into the...just kidding.

Last year, The Melbourne Food and Wine Festival's Out of the Frying Pan conference seriously overlooked one important aspect of food writing; the New Media, bloggers in particular.

This year, things seem to have taken a turn for the better. Stephanie, Jackie and Ed are among the panel speaking about the ins and outs, successes and failures of blogging life and Ed is giving away freebie tickets (that are disappearing fast) for any interested bloggers.

Follow this link if you're free on Monday March the 3rd and interested (last year's was great, by the way, despite 'our' notable absence) - interstate bloggers are encouraged to get on board, too!

See ya there.

Irritated

Yes. The internet has no ‘gatekeepers’. Yes. The internet is ‘un-edited’. I don’t doubt that yes, somewhere, out there, the internet is littered with a tonne of rubbish.

But really, do we have to be belittled by people just as opinionated as us?

John Lethlean’s words in The Age this week resulted in more verbiage from a growing community of budding and not-so-budding Australian writers on Ed’s blog, Tomato; all of it thought-provoking, all of it relevant, much of it consoling.

Still, I am irritated.

Much of my reading time is taken up by books rather than opinion pieces, so I often have neither the time nor inclination to read them. The politics of food are high on my agenda, but as a subject, rarely make it onto these pages. But when I stumbled across Mr Lethlean’s comment, a small, off-handed one, no doubt intended to be taken on face value rather than as a deeper dig, I felt a little shiver of irritation.

It’s been playing on my mind.

I do not think that I write badly and most certainly do not think badly of anyone else’s words. On the contrary, most people whose work (and let’s face it, it is work) I read take great pride in it and that, surely, is to be applauded. We are a literate and often amusing bunch. I'm happy to read what appeals to these eyes and switch off to the words that do not resonate.

It’s as simple as that.